Wednesday, March 29. Today I sent Max on his own to visit the islands in the Lagoon. I just could not manage the amount of walking involved. He says he wants to live on Torcello. I got email with a picture of his lunch at the Cipriani.
When he got back….about 6 pm he called and asked what our plans were for dinner. We had no plans since I didn’t know when he’d be back so I took the vaporetto to the Palanca stop…I know to some of you who know Venice that is the long way around but with my current limitations 400 meters to Sacca Fisola, get on the vaporetto and within 15 minutes I’m there or take the walk to Palanca…900 meters and the 35 minutes it takes me to walk it and my way is better…at least for me.
He decided we would eat at Do Mori which is right there by the vaporetto (a little too close as we get the noise from that) but he had been before and liked it. It was a very pleasant evening.
I saw my favorite (or one of them) Venetian antipasti…Baccala on the menu. I was hungry and forgot to take a picture….sorry. The waiter was very impressed that an American woman could not only order that in Italian but that she would order that. It’s dried and salted cod that has been reconstituted, shredded and made into a creamy mixture and served with crostini (what you do with your day old baguette…no, really it’s fresh and toasted.) He was amazed that it disappeared as fast as it did and I think Max only got about a third of it.
Above picture is the tax police on patrol.
Below the setting sun casts a rosy glow.
As shown in the roses in my cheeks.
I had the grilled chicken breast and patate fritte (French fries).
The “side” of fries was huge and I could only manage part of it.
Max had their lasagna bolognese which was also an ample portion.
As darkness enveloped the City of My Dreams
The cuttlefish came out to play…
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuttlefish
They are in season now and highly prized. Their black ink is used in a lot of dishes here this time of year including the black bread I love. But I still can’t get myself to order the spaghetti or polenta covered in black. But this pescatore (fisherman) was standing by the vaporetto waiting area with his net and other people were pointing and helping him scoop them up.
I am a little behind in my posting so you will get the morning of the 30th soon…I promise but the next post will be a very, very special dinner. Ciao, ciao for now.
Hi Michelle! I’m glad you are having such a lovely time. I’ve never heard of bread with cuttlefish ink – where do you get it? I’d like to try it!
I had it at Bacaromi the Venetian restaurant at the Hilton Molino Stucky. The first time when I was there with my Latvian friend I loved it but didn’t know what it was. When I went back last Saturday with Max I asked the waiter about it and he told me what it was. I haven’t seen it for sale anywhere (I looked) so they probably make it in house.
Ah right, thanks. I’ll see if I can find a recipe; otherwise we’ll just have to go to that restaurant!
I did not check every bakery in Venice so try near you.
Is the Do Mori at La Palanca the same ownership as Cantina Do Mori, the cicchetti place in San Polo?
I don’t know the answer to that, Laurel.
Caroline, I’m pretty sure the bread there is seasonal and they may not have it all the time. It is good food…Venetian specialties. Their cicchetti platter…the small one is lots of food for 16 Euros if I remember. Max had it for his main meal last Saturday. My Latvian friend and I had shared it while she was here and each of us had ordered main dishes and it was way too much food. And because they specialize in the cicchetti they open at 6 pm (or 18:00)…reservations a must on the weekends.
Speaking of polenta covered in black, I cannot forget that plate of inky magic I had when we went to that Cavallo place…
You should really have a look at the reviews on Trip Advisor. I thought we had a lovely meal with good service but lots of people complaining. When I go home I’m going to do reviews on every place I’ve gone.